Wednesday, 12 October 2016

Tales of the Subaru - Floriade 2016



Me & Bob Menzies

We didn't get away from home until 12.30pm then only made it as far as the fire station before I realised I hadn't packed my Ventolin which I rarely use any more but much like a hanky, if you don't have one you're sure to need one so back we went.  That then saw us approaching the local Maccas at around 1.00pm which drove home the reality that the first stopping spot on the motorway was a good two hours hence and far too close to the dinner I was looking forward to.  Mindful of the diabetic implications of not eating fairly regularly we went - Maccas do have a few healthier options these days.

The first hour of motorway driving reminded me of a Mad Max movie, or at least the only one I've even seen from back before Mel Gibson completed his metamorphosis into a complete and utter prick.  The road was thick with trucks, semis and B-doubles, which had me wondering if I really wanted to go to Canberra but an hour along it thinned out and I began to enjoy the verdant green countryside and the masses of new dams, ponds and just plain overflows that have sprung into existence as if by magic if not a bloody lot of rain.

That's when Hume came into our lives, so named because it was the Hume Motorway that he was attempting to cross, a decision that would almost certainly see him discharged from his own existence.  All the surface water and new aqua-environments had moved Hume to go exploring which is exactly what Eastern Long-Necked Turtles do when things get moist or dry.

I was travelling at 110 with the rest of the Mad Maxes and Maxines whizzing by considerable faster than that so it took about a kilometre to safely pull over.  I then reversed a few hundred metres in the breakdown lane whilst getting blasted by passing behemoths before getting out and power-walking the rest of the way since running is never an option.  And there was Hume, straddling the white line between the breakdown lane and the outside lane on his was to absolute oblivion.  I snatched him out of the path of a Woolworth the Fresh Food People B-dub which was clearly intent at living up to its corporate slogan by delivering its cargo so quickly that it would arrive at its destination before it left its point of origin.

Hume was safe and possibly even as grateful as a turtle can be although he did to a stinky-piss which is an Eastern Long-Neck's one and only method of defense.  Once back at the car we popped him into my faithful BYO wine carrier which I never travel without and continued on our way while Hume hit us with another stinky-piss so we wouldn't forget that he was there.

The search was now on for a safe and permanent waterhole, there being a good many that were neither.  Thanks to us an DeDe the Subaru, Hume has now migrated beyond the range his short legs would have otherwise taken him but still well within the range of his species.  He is now safe and sound in the wetland surrounding Rowes Lagoon near Collector.

Relocating Hume

So on we rolled, pleased that the Universe had seen fit to provide us with an ever increasing set of obstacles that morning which ultimately caused our path to intersect with Hume's in a non-flattening way.  But there was more to come - a roadside echidna by Lake George.  That required two u-turns with a backtrack of several kilometres in between and me all the while wishing I and moved my echidna relocating device (leather gardening gloves) from the old car to the new but being moderately confident that the towel I'd thrown in the back as an afterthought would somehow suffice.  But it was not needed.  Another slow crawl along another breakdown lane revealed that George the Echidna had turned tail and headed back down towards the lake which, being intermittent as it is, is currently in the process of again becoming actually lake-like for the first time in a decade or more.

Our various delays saw us roll quite fortuitously into Anne's Ainslie driveway just seconds behind her.  She'd planned to be home hours earlier but found herself taking a friend to the doctor and then on to hospital which put us all back into realignment.

Canberra Tucker Tip #1

It was great to catch up with Anne and Cassie the Staffy who looks like a Hairy-Nosed Wombat then celebrate my 62nd birthday at Timmy's in Manuka which is my favorite restaurant in the entire world.  There is nothing overly flash about Timmy's, especially in fashionable Manuka, and it's even BYO with no corkage which makes unique in that part of Canberra, but they do exceptional Malay/Chinese food.  The shan tung chicken is not to be missed and nor is the English spinach in garlic.

Next morning we were off to Floriade which was lovely but if you've been at any time over the last ten years or so there's no need to rush back.  Nothing has changed beyond the expansion of the stalls and concessions, most completely untreated to gardening.  There is also a new amusements area that has alleviated visiting children of the need to look at the gardens and wonder at the marvels of both nature and plant engineering.  Let no child go unentertained or any spare dollar unspent!

Entertaining the kiddies

Canberra Tucker Tip #2

The Burmese Curry Place is in the lovely old Sydney Building on Northbourne Ave and it’s a lunchtime must because you have to get there early for dinner.  We've managed the latter just once but in the last four times we’ve been in Canberra we’ve missed out on both every other time because of a fire around the corner; closed for holidays; or just plain bad luck but I was determined to change that!

We headed to the footbridge over Parkes Way and hoofed it into town for lunch.  And there was I, like Moses looking upon the Promised Land but unlike Moses, not forbidden by my Invisible Friend from entering so in I went.  And there-in did I find my very favorite egg curry which is two slightly pierced hard boiled eggs in a curry sauce - the stuff of my dreams!

Egg curry with chicken & prawn


The Selection - simple but good

Since I was on a walking stick the rumor of a shuttle bus back to Floriade where DeDe was parked sounded quite enticing so we went to the appointed bus stand and stupidly got on the first bus that came.  It sailed right past Floriade then over Commonwealth Bridge en route to its actual destination of Tuggeranong which is Canberra’s southernmost satellite township just a little north of Melbourne.

The kindly bus driver stopped and let us out opposite the Albert Hall, an amusingly named performance space on the south side of Lake Burley Griffin.  We were now roughly twice as far away from Floriade as we had been at the Burmese Curry Place and I was still on a walking stick but off we set, back across the bridge and through the parklands to our destination and a well-earned cup of tea although it must be said that they had special people working I their tea, coffee and muffin facility but that’s another politically incorrect story.

The penultimate highlight of my day - the egg curry being unsurpassable - was dancing with the trumpet player from the strolling army band.  Yes, strolling.  Unlike America, marching isn’t seen as a particularly worthwhile pursuit in Australia so military bands stroll or walk in preference to marching when and where they can and Floriade is such a place.  Now what I didn’t know was if you walk in front of their spectators rather than behind - and remember I was on a stick - you have to dance with one of the band members and so it was.

Army Strolling Band

Sometimes life actually imitates life.  We had with us two pieces of our lotus water feature that required repair and modification by their creator who lives in - now wait for it - Tuggeranong.  Unfortunately, despite successfully made email arrangements followed by repeated unsuccessful attempts at communication by phone, coppersmith extraordinaire, Annie, was not at home and nowhere to be found.

Never mind, with unrepaired and unmodified garden art in tow we set off find a nursery, just for the sheer joy of a meander.  That’s when Thelma the sat nav proved herself to be a lying bitch, several times over, and was told so in no uncertain terms.

Canberra Tucker Tip #3

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again - the new National Arboretum for all manner of reasons, one of them being food.  They have an excellent bistro menu with Peter and me each selecting gourmet burgers - his composed of several species of dead animals; mine of several species of humanely euthanised legumes both served on slaughtered and sliced tree trunks.

Gourmet Burger on a slice of tree

They also have a smarter restaurant called The Conservatory which looks much like where we were apart from table cloths and waiters.  The do breakfast, lunch and dinner and we will be going back before 11.00am next visit so I can experience their Son-in-Law Eggs which are crispy deep-fried poached eggs with caramel chilli, coriander and shallots - yummo!

Nursery Tip # 1

Host Anne - rare sliced beef salad - then guided us to the nursery strip in Pialligo which was a joyous and productive experience thanks to my new friend Trevor at Rodney’s Plants Plus who solved all my vegetable flowering and fruiting problems in ten minutes flat.  Many businesses are relegated to specific neighborhoods in Canberra.  Fyshwick has long been known for brothels, sex shops and all things automotive; Pialligo is plants and airports.

Canberra Tucker Tip 1A

No visit to Canberra is ever complete without going to Timmy’s twice so we returned for an early lunch before heading north.  Timmy recognised us immediately and brought the exact same dishes we’ve enjoyed on our last 27 visits - shan tung chicken and English spinach.

Nursery Tip #2

Of course if it’s not food it’s nurseries or perhaps hardware stores so we stopped at the Bundanoon Bloomery on the way home.  You can’t miss it in the main street of Bundannon in the lovely Southern Highlands.  The Bloomery is owned and run by our good friends Allan and Ian and while you won’t get a discount for mentioning my name they will happily regale you with tales that are both amusing and quite possibly embarrassing so do drop by.

As always, DeDe performed flawlessly and ran off the smell of an oily rag.  Subaru would do so much better to ask me how best to advertise their product rather than using a camp clone GI Joe doll and a Lou Reid song about transssexuality, drugs, male prostitution and oral sex - not that I don’t celebrate both camp clone GI Joes and Lou Reid; but what the bloody hell were they thinking when they came up with that campaign?!  Did the advertising execs forgo the usual long lunch and vats of chardonnay for copious lines of cocaine or was it something cooked up in Tokyo?

My favorite shot at Floriade 2016


Friday, 5 August 2016

Tales of the Subaru - Northbound 2016



I think I may have been channeling Clark Griswold from the original National Lampoon Vacation as we headed northward in DeDe Halcyon, our Tales of the City associated Subaru Outback.  I had my list of 'must see' and 'must do' so we both saw and did!

Armidale

First stop was Armidale, home of my alma mater, the University of New England, where I discovered my beloved Drummond College has been overrun by rugger buggers from Robb.  It appears that after generations of unbridled sheep-shagging in the aforementioned Country Party stronghold, Robb College has finally been condemned.  That came as quite a shock to the old boys who include amongst their number Deputy PM Barnaby Joyce so the university, in all of its political wisdom, cleared out Drummond and moved Robb in there.

Barnaby, before this you were just an inarticulate cane toad and all-round national embarrassment but now you've made it personal, you bastard!

Booloominbah - University of New England

All that aside it was lovely to catch up with Shara and Tom share a meal with them.  People make a place and we always enjoy our time with old friends.  In fact, most of this trip is about family and friends as well as the odd place.  Armidale is one such place and it holds many happy memories for me.  I find that I need to return every few years.

Accommodation Tip #1

We stayed at Lindsay House which was a very impressive doctor's residence when first built during the early 20th century.  It later became a women's residence of Armidale Teachers' College which has been long absorbed into the university.  Now restored to its true Edwardian glory if’s become a boutique hotel.  We had one of the two huge upstairs rooms that overlook the gardens and the park across the street.  I'm giving Lindsay House a great big thumbs up!

Lindsay House - Armidale

Tucker Tip #1

I'm repeating a recommendation from our last visit to Armidale because it's just so damned good!  Check out PJ Thai on Marsh Street.  Just look for the big red and white KFC then ignore it completely and go next door but best book because it's popular and you'll see why.  Their extraordinary fish cakes are 90% air and 100% flavor - my best yet and I'm a total tod mun tragic.

En Route

This is where the Clark Griswold part of the trip really kicks in.  We motored on up the New England Highway with the intention of dropping in on an old school friend who owned the lolly shop in Tenterfield but the new owner told me that she'd joined the ranks of the megafauna before having a tummy tuck, selling the business and moving to Tamworth.  He assured me that she was now quite diminutive which is exactly how I remember her from 45 years ago.

Ergo:  Don't buy a lolly shop and eat the profits.

From there it was on down the escarpment and off to firstly Bonalbo and then Old Bonalbo for no other reason than a neighbor in Drummond College made sure that everyone understood she came from Old Bonalbo, not Bonalbo.  Well now that I've been to both I have to tell you that had I been Leanne I wouldn't have insisted on setting the record quite so straight!

The best thing about Old Bonalbo is leaving it and heading north towards Woodenbong.  You drive through the most magnificent patch of remnant rainforest where straight white gums tower over turpentines and Bangalow palms, all of them dripping with more epiphytes than you can imagine.

Woodenbong was where my father's family lived and ran the local newsagency after moving on from Nimbin which was our destination for the next couple of nights.  As I understand it, Uncle Noel left Woodenbong first then Dad went to live with his grandparents in the Sydney suburb of Wahoonga so he could finish high school which was something you couldn't do at Woodenbong back in those days.  Grandma and Pop followed a few years later which I consider an excellent move.  Spectacular views of Mt Warning and the Border Rangers aside, Woodenbong has little going for it.  I am, however, the proud holder of both the family nulla nulla and boomerang which were made for Grandma and Pop by some of the local Aboriginal folk with whom they were friendly.  In fact Pop employed a number of them.

Nimbin

The old family home in Nimbin was in the throes of conversion to a B&B last time I passed through town about 25 years ago so I booked a night on the way back and was their very first guest.  The place has changed hands a few times since but it's still a B&B which in Nimbin these last 45 years is just as likely to mean Bed & Bong as Bed & Breakfast.  

The old Cawthorne family home - now Blue Gum Lodge

It was nice to stay in the old place once again.  I visited twice as a kid and the people who lived there then showed us through but I really only remember the outside and the front steps.  It must have been quite the grand old Queenslander in its day but now only the front veranda remains, the others have been closed in to accommodate ensuite bathrooms.

We stayed two nights which gave us a full day out and about and we had a wonderful time.  The Nimbin Markets were a bit ordinary - the dreadlocks, Jesus and recorder player aside (I do enjoy a good recorder tune) - but the Thai lunch we had there was so extraordinary we bought dinner as well and had it on the front veranda of the house overlooking a slice of Northern NSW paradise.

Nimbin Rocks

We bought objet at the local gallery - a lovely piece of engraved glass which will be a perfect table centrepiece with a candle inside and the most amazing bird bath which is concrete but looks ceramic.  Both are local, both are handmade and they were both cheap as chips.

We hit the road after that and I have to tell you the reason the Universe gave DeDe a sunroof is so we can drive through rainforests with it open.  Oh what a joy!  It was dripping with epiphytes and there were the lyrebirds and wallabies galore - we had a wonderful day.  Even the mad pink polyester nighty wearing woman who lives in a shed with her pit bull near the farm of old family friends was eventually personable - and really quite informative.  You just have to go with the flow and put yourself in the space but not the nighty.

En Route

We drove north from Nimbin through more of the massive caldera of the long extinct volcano that is responsible for the uplifts, plugs, ranges and peaks around these parts.  The back road over the Border Ranges lays it all out before you.  We hiked down into a valley to Natural Bridge where a creek goes through a cave and out the other side.  Last time I did that was in 1976 and it's amazing just how much steeper the climb has become in 40 years - it must be due to erosion!

On the borderline

The best thing about having a bad back is having to stop from time to time and take in the rainforest and its birds.  There was a tiny little species of wren no bigger than a small finch which I found quite fascinating.

Surfers Paradise

Of course the worst thing about having a bad back was when we got settled in our apartment in Surfers Paradise and took a short walk down town it seized up after all the climbing.  Fortunately there are a lot of benches and seats in Surfers so we limped our way back in 50m burst.  A few vodkas helped ease the pain and relax nerves and muscles alike.

Accommodation Tip #2

Surfers Paradise is Miami meets Manhattan.  Part of our view looked out at Q1 which was the world's tallest residential building until something in Dubai overtook it as things in Dubai do.  We stayed at the Imperial Surf again but in a different apartment.  This one was on the 18th floor but we preferred the 12th where we looked straight out at the ocean.  Mind you, this year’s digs weren’t shabby.  We had a 180' view of ocean, high rise and the canal developments behind which provided lots to look at and was very sparkly at night. 

You can book direct but I use Stayz which is where you'll find apartment 12C - my pick.

Our view in Surfers Paradise

Tucker Tip #2

As with my ArmidaleTucker Tip, this one is an echo from last visit that's worthy of another mention.  No visit to Surfers will ever be complete for me without a vegan buffet lunch at Govindas smack in the middle of town on Surfers Paradise Boulevard.  I'm not so sure about Krishna Consciousness but the food is good.  Try the pakoras and kofta with sweet spicy tomato sauce and mango pickle.

Next time you hear me complain about Sydney’s uncoordinated traffic lights please remind me about the Gold Coast.   We hit every red light between Surfers and Coolangatta when we went down to have dinner with the two Annies, my good friends and old colleagues who independently drifted northwards in search of new directions.  Annie Green came about 15 years and is loving it.  Anne Anstee (Gillian to most) is a more recent arrival who is also enjoying the move but does miss her coffee catch ups in Sydney as is evidenced by her growing frequent flier points balance.  

Anstee (Gillian), Glenn & Annie

It was lovely to see them both.  There is something very special about shared histories - I like to think of it as cerebral comfort food.  And the Thai food at the restaurant Anstee took us to wasn't half bad either - once I recovered from the forced march!  We had the best night.

Next day was the point of the whole trip, a visit with Peter’s lovely Aunty Joan who lives on Hope Island with her poodle Honey who is a most amazingly well behaved little dog - smart too as poodles generally are.  Honey was looking forward to a ride in the car and didn't care where so wasn't surprised by the excesses of the Sovereign Islands like I was.  The boats are bigger than houses and the houses are the size of small apartment building!   The “islands” must have been sand banks and mangroves at one time but no mangrove is safe in Queensland - no reef either!

Aunty Joan, Peter & Honey

Tucker Tip #3

Lunch at George’s at Sanctuary Cove set things right.  It’s worth driving to Queensland just for their creamy garlic prawns on rice!

I'm pathetic!  Anstee was talking about all the amazing new shops at the revamped Pacific Fair (like I would care) so we ended up at a nursery nowhere near there where we bought a burnt orange dwarf bougainvillea and a black-leafed frangipani with deep red flowers.  Something from Versace or Gucci would have been much easier to carry home.

En Route

After a déjà vu experience with Gold Coast traffic lights I finally hit the Pacific Motorway and we flew all the way to Ballina where the dream run changes. That’s where the roadwork starts and continues on and off down the coast between already completed segments but I must say I’m very impressed by the progress being made.

We had a couple of stops; the most celebrated being the iconic Big Banana, the original ‘Big Thing’ where we enjoyed our now traditional ‘Dick-on-a-Stick’ with nuts of course.  It wouldn’t be a ‘Dick-on-a-Stick’ without nuts!

Glenn enjoying a Dick on a Stick - with nuts, of course

Port Macquarie

It took eight and a half hours but we finally pulled into Port Macquarie, ever so glad to be there and too tired to even contemplate either of the two restaurants I was keen to try so we hit one of the local noodle shops for a completely acceptable take away.

Accommodation Tip #3

There are flasher places in Port but we really enjoyed our River View room at the Water’s Edge right near the bridge on Buller Street and it’s really not too shabby.  The big plus is it’s just a couple of minutes’ walk to a dozen or more restaurants and the outlook is lovely provided you don’t mind watching the Lycra brigade jogging by on the riverside path each morning.  I don’t know why they can’t keep their perversions locked up inside a gym where they belong but there you go!

The reason for stopping in Port Macquarie was to visit the mum of my old university mate Dave Bailey who is now about 30 years gone.  My how time flies - that’s half my lifetime or all of poor Dave’s.  Our catch up with Noelene was good as always.  I have happy memories of long weekends with Dave’s family when we’d drive down from Armidale for some surf, sun and sand.  Noelene always welcomed me and I love catching up with her all these years later.

Tucker Tip #4

The Oriental Spoon by the bridge on William Street, just a short stroll from the Water’s Edge, isn’t a half bad Korean restaurant.  If you’re thinking of going on a weekend best book, it’s very popular.

En Route

The final stop in our catch up tour of Northern NSW and Southern Queensland was in Taree to visit Peter’s cousin Warren and his wife Lorna who I’ve not previously had the pleasure of meeting.  After the truly horrible experience we’ve had at the hands of Peter’s cousins from the other side of the family, I was delighted to meet Warren and Lorna.  As a result of that reunion, coupled with time spent visiting lovely Aunty Joan, I declare Tales of the Subaru – Northbound 2016 to be a great big Tritton assisted success!

Peter, Lorna & Warren

Footnote

We’re still lovin’ DeDe Halcyon, the Subaru Outback who performed flawlessly and ran on the smell of an oily rag.  Our fuel bill has literally halved and she outperforms faithful old Ali the Nissan Pathfinder in every way.  Ali was a real workhorse but very thirsty and while he could haul a load not too much happened when you put your foot down.  By contrast, DeDe goes, she just goes!

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